Day Two - Rive Gauche

Here in Austin, we say “north of the river” and “south of the river” when giving directions. In Paris, where a river divides the city as well, they say “right bank” or “left bank.” Didn’t quite understand the right and left thing since it was really a north and south thing to me. But, looked it up and it has to do with your orientation if you were floating down the Seine. The right bank is on your right shoulder; the left bank is on your left. Viola.

So there we are rive gauche today. Just kind of worked out that yesterday we were on the north, opps, right bank and today we find ourselves on the left bank. You can easily cross from one bank to the other, by way of the many bridges.

We start at Notre Dame Cathedral. The gargoyles that cling along the exterior of the cathedral are certainly the stars of the structure. I snap multiple views of the building and its inhabitants, but have actually pulled better close-ups off the internet for use in the classroom with my students on past clay projects. By 11:00 the line for the Tower Tour, which includes narrow stairways to the top, was already long, creeping slowly and in the hot sun without a drop of shade. This is one of the two sights that we cannot jump the line with the museum pass. We passed on that; maybe another time when we get an earlier start.

We back track to Sainte Chappelle, a tiny chapel with awesome stained glass. This is another sight that you can’t skip ahead of the line, but the line is in the shade and takes about 30 minutes or less. It’s the security line that holds up folks as bags are hand checked.

Next to Sainte Chappelle is La Conciergerie. Also adjacent is the Palais de Justice. Prisoners, including Marie Antoinette, were held in La Conciergerie during the Reign of Terror before they were sent to the guillotine for execution. I suppose today we call it “Death Row.” Only a small part of La Conciergerie is open to the public, but The Hall of the Guards is a great example of medieval architecture.

Continuing along the Seine to the Musee d’Orsay, we browse the little green stands along the wall filled with old books, nic naks and souvenirs. At the Orsay, the museum pass line has a line. It’s time for lunch anyway and we look for a grassy spot only to find that there is none. We do find a speck of shade next to a statue on the steps and huddle around it. We send Violet out for cokes at a nearby umbrella stand. She returns to inform us that the Museum Pass is sold there too. Good to know since there was no line there. We eat our proverbial baguette, cheese and sometimes meat sandwich, swishing it down with lukewarm Coke.

You have to understand that Europeans do not believe in ice. I don’t know why. They just do not share the love of ice as we Americans do with our 100+QT ice chests and 10 lb. bags of store bought ice filled for every outdoor event. No, lukewarm suits them fine. My ex-pat friend, Michael, pulls out the 500 Euro sleek-lined ice maker for pool parties. It produces a handful of ice cubes that we fight over every 15 minutes or so. The Europeans look at us indifferently. But we all know that Sonic crunchy ice is the best.

So back at the Orsay, we wait in the hot sun for good 30 minutes or more, again it’s the security lines, not the ticket purchasing that holds everything up. This is the only museum that DOES NOT allow photographs…bummer, because the building itself is spectacular. Housed in the train station with its super high arched ceiling, it was built in 1900 for the World’s Fair. It’s now painted green and white, light and airy.

The Orsay, a national museum, features art from 1849-1914. It’s everything French and beyond. What wasn’t at the Orangerie, you will find here and more. I loved the art Nouveau furniture and home furnishings, just gorgeous. How much for that one?

Outside again we begin to walk away from the river, attempting to visit one more sight, The Rodin Museum, but I just start to pitter out. It’s getting late in the day. By the time we would get there, the museum will only be open for another hour and the gardens open another hour later. I am just tired and hot and my feet are burning. Do I really need to see “The Thinker?” We decide to head back to our Montmartre apartment via metro.

Another day well spent appreciating Paris’ contribution to the art world. And still, there is plenty to see on another visit to Paris. My advice, don’t do everything, leave something so you have to come back.