Views of the Eiffel Tower

On our last day in Paris, we finally made our way to the Eiffel Tower. It had loomed in the background as we walked around town, visiting other sights, holding it at bay till finally got there.

French Trains: What I Now Know

First let’s just get this one thing crystal clear-I will never buy another Eurorail pass. Someone told me that they were an expensive product only sold for the North American market and I should have believed it, but I did some research (on the English language website) and it seemed like a more flexible option with a slightly ($15) difference in price. The reality of the cost of the same individual tickets had I had purchased them on French soil would have probably saved me somewhere in the neighborhood of $200 or more. So here’s the story.

Lyon to Arles - Train from Lyon to Arles took 2 hours or more, stopped at every little town, had no air conditioning on one of the two days that a heat wave swept through Europe. But, no problem just showing our three-day travel in a month Eurorail pass to the ticket taker on board the train.

Arles to Chalon sur Soane – Should have taken one of the two earlier trains at noon, but waited till the 1:00 train because it seemed faster. When we got to the station, the ticket agent told us that the train was full, because it was a TGV, the fast train and we did not have a reservation. Had we taken one of the earlier trains, regular TER, no problem. Our fatal mistake was not talking with a ticket agent earlier that day to straighten out the difference of the types of trains.

To complicated matters more, we had to call Dey and tell here that we would be 3 hours late. I had already tried to navigate the no-coin-option pay phones in Belgium with no luck. The international phone card that I bought at the airport for 10 Euros and used only once and that worked at the Belgium airport to call Jackson has never worked since, even though I keep trying.

My bank debit and credit cards don’t work because they do not have the European chip in them. They only work when the card can be swiped, not inserted.

Charge for the English operator assisted phone call where we left a 60 second message- $31.26. I’ll be disputing that charge once I get back to the states.

Anyway, we finally got there. Dey had a taxi waiting for us since they were at a choral concert. 30 Euros, but worth being swept away to our destination.

Chalon sur Saone to Paris – I had made a reservation on the TGV for an extra $33.00. No problem, or maybe not. I guess I did not truly understand that this email confirmation was not the actual ticket. Somewhere in the small print I missed that I needed to exchange it for a real ticket at the ticket counter or a kiosk (where my credit card would not work.) I think the wording said "validate the ticket." Well, on the train I had to buy another set of reservations that cost 45 Euros or about $70.00. Really ticked me off. I guess I just paid the “stupid American tax” on that one. Fatal mistake #2, not talking to a ticket agent, AGAIN.

Paris to Brusells on the Thalys- Purchased 30 Euro tickets online 90 days in advance. Correction of Fatal Mistake #1 and #2, a day before our departure, we take the email confirmation to the ticket window at Gare du Noord where the agent could swipe my credit card and print out the actual tickets for the train.

Voila. No stupid tax. We are now on the train headed north to Belgium racing across the beautiful French countryside.

The lesson learned is that if I am going to be inconvenienced by not understanding the idiosyncrasies of a country’s transportation system I would rather spend the money in the country at the time and not have the false sense of a security with an advance purchase of a special pass. Therefore, I will NEVER BUY A EURORAIL PASS again.

...and always ask at the ticket counter!

Day Two - Rive Gauche

Here in Austin, we say “north of the river” and “south of the river” when giving directions. In Paris, where a river divides the city as well, they say “right bank” or “left bank.” Didn’t quite understand the right and left thing since it was really a north and south thing to me. But, looked it up and it has to do with your orientation if you were floating down the Seine. The right bank is on your right shoulder; the left bank is on your left. Viola.

So there we are rive gauche today. Just kind of worked out that yesterday we were on the north, opps, right bank and today we find ourselves on the left bank. You can easily cross from one bank to the other, by way of the many bridges.

We start at Notre Dame Cathedral. The gargoyles that cling along the exterior of the cathedral are certainly the stars of the structure. I snap multiple views of the building and its inhabitants, but have actually pulled better close-ups off the internet for use in the classroom with my students on past clay projects. By 11:00 the line for the Tower Tour, which includes narrow stairways to the top, was already long, creeping slowly and in the hot sun without a drop of shade. This is one of the two sights that we cannot jump the line with the museum pass. We passed on that; maybe another time when we get an earlier start.

We back track to Sainte Chappelle, a tiny chapel with awesome stained glass. This is another sight that you can’t skip ahead of the line, but the line is in the shade and takes about 30 minutes or less. It’s the security line that holds up folks as bags are hand checked.

Next to Sainte Chappelle is La Conciergerie. Also adjacent is the Palais de Justice. Prisoners, including Marie Antoinette, were held in La Conciergerie during the Reign of Terror before they were sent to the guillotine for execution. I suppose today we call it “Death Row.” Only a small part of La Conciergerie is open to the public, but The Hall of the Guards is a great example of medieval architecture.

Continuing along the Seine to the Musee d’Orsay, we browse the little green stands along the wall filled with old books, nic naks and souvenirs. At the Orsay, the museum pass line has a line. It’s time for lunch anyway and we look for a grassy spot only to find that there is none. We do find a speck of shade next to a statue on the steps and huddle around it. We send Violet out for cokes at a nearby umbrella stand. She returns to inform us that the Museum Pass is sold there too. Good to know since there was no line there. We eat our proverbial baguette, cheese and sometimes meat sandwich, swishing it down with lukewarm Coke.

You have to understand that Europeans do not believe in ice. I don’t know why. They just do not share the love of ice as we Americans do with our 100+QT ice chests and 10 lb. bags of store bought ice filled for every outdoor event. No, lukewarm suits them fine. My ex-pat friend, Michael, pulls out the 500 Euro sleek-lined ice maker for pool parties. It produces a handful of ice cubes that we fight over every 15 minutes or so. The Europeans look at us indifferently. But we all know that Sonic crunchy ice is the best.

So back at the Orsay, we wait in the hot sun for good 30 minutes or more, again it’s the security lines, not the ticket purchasing that holds everything up. This is the only museum that DOES NOT allow photographs…bummer, because the building itself is spectacular. Housed in the train station with its super high arched ceiling, it was built in 1900 for the World’s Fair. It’s now painted green and white, light and airy.

The Orsay, a national museum, features art from 1849-1914. It’s everything French and beyond. What wasn’t at the Orangerie, you will find here and more. I loved the art Nouveau furniture and home furnishings, just gorgeous. How much for that one?

Outside again we begin to walk away from the river, attempting to visit one more sight, The Rodin Museum, but I just start to pitter out. It’s getting late in the day. By the time we would get there, the museum will only be open for another hour and the gardens open another hour later. I am just tired and hot and my feet are burning. Do I really need to see “The Thinker?” We decide to head back to our Montmartre apartment via metro.

Another day well spent appreciating Paris’ contribution to the art world. And still, there is plenty to see on another visit to Paris. My advice, don’t do everything, leave something so you have to come back.

Art in Paris

Bought the 2-day Museum pass for 35 Euros. That means in 2 days you can visit approximately 40 sites. Or you can buy a 4-day or 6-day pass and visit the same 40 or so sites in as many days. We decided to see as many as possible and picked the top eight or so.

Here are a few details about the pass that might help you.

1. Some museums are closed on Monday and others on Tuesday. Plan accordingly if you are there on Monday and Tuesday like we were.

2. Buying the pass lets you skip the lines or at least be in a shorter line for entry into all sites, except Saint Chappelle and Notre Dame Tower. This is a really good thing and worth the price of the pass.

3. Kids under 16 get in for free. All European students get in free too, the catch is that they have to stand in the line to show their ID and get a free ticket. I decided to buy Jackson a museum pass, despite the fact that he had an ID and could have gotten in for free, so we could all just skip the line. I spent an extra $50, but it was worth our time.

Our first stop was The Lourve. Using Rick Steve’s guide, we found out to NOT stand in the super long line that not only wraped around the main entrance, but continued out past the farthest plaza entrance. Crazy to wait in that line because there are other entrances. The line is so long because they only have one metal detector machine. Once you are inside, you have to go downstairs into the underground mall to buy your ticket anyway!

Instead, go to 99 rue de Tivoli, one of the streets that boarders the plaza, to Le Carrousel du Louvre entrance. This is the underground mall. Down the escalator to about the center of the mall there is a Tabac that sells the Museum Pass. Have cash and buy it from the friendly English-speaking girl behind the counter. Viola. After that we were in. Then you have to figure out how to navigate one of the world’s biggest museums.

We spent about two hours running around and looking for the Mona Lisa, of course, Vermeer’s The Lacemaker. Durer’s Self-Portrait, the Venus de Milo and so much more. I took over 300 pictures that day and got some great ideas for student art projects.

Next, we walked the length of the park to the other side to the Musee de L’Orangerie that houses, on Level -1, a wonderful, extensive collection of impressionist art once owned by two wealthy collectors, known as the Walter-Guillaume Collection. On the upper two levels, Monet’s massive water lily and weeping willow paintings are displayed in two separate oval shaped galleries. A smaller museum with an impressive collection that was really thrilling to see.

But, onward down the Champs Elysees toward the Arche de Triomphe. And yes, there was a line to enter the all new Abercrombie and Fitch store that has recently opened on this famed street. Kinda pathetic.

At the arch, we climbed the 284 stairs to the top for a spectacular view of the city. Notable was “new” Paris with its modern skyscrapers, looking like any US city that I have seen.

So now it is about 5:00, but we are not done yet! Oh no no. Down to the metro and off to the Pompidou Center, which houses the National Museum of Modern Art, all 60,000 pieces of it. I gotta tell you, by this time, my feet are pretty tired. We rest outside a bit, listening to one of the many bands that perform on the plaza around the center and eat a crepe. Violet’s is stuffed with chocolate and bananas, certainly the most delicious of the three.

Inside we wander through hallways and galleries of many large-scale paintings and installations until the museum closes at 9:00. Only then are we ready to go back to our apartment, my camera battery dead, the SD card full and my feet definitely aching and ready to rest.

Tomorrow…day 2 on the Museum Pass.

Why I Like France (in no particular order)

1. Art
2. The countryside
3. Crepes
4. Boulangeries
5. Style
6. Markets
7. Old buildings
8. Good coffee
9. Lavender
10. Paris Metro
11. Georges Brassens

Montmartre, Paris Arrondissement 18

We arrived at Gare de Lyon in Paris and caught a taxi to our Paris apartment. I booked through Vacation Rental By Owner or http://www.vbro.com. The apartment sits on the road that leads directly to the Sacre Coeur or the Sacred Heart of Paris. Little did we know that hoards of people use this street daily and on that Sunday barriers blocked it off. The taxi dropped us off at the bottom of the hill, not a big deal. Walking up the hill past the tacky tourist t-shirt shops the crowds thickened around a makeshift box table.

A Moroccan man is moving 3 black discs quickly between his hands barking out at the crowd in French. I don’t need to know the language to recognize the familiar “pea and shell” game.

Of course the kids are fascinated, and should be. Winning money…it looks so easy. When we get to the-cutest-little-apartment-yet, I have to explain to them that the person winning the money is a plant.

Watching from the window, Jackson and Violet are still convinced that they know where the disc with the white circle underneath has landed. I know if they try that they will loose their money and it is only when they realize that it takes 50 Euro to play, they decide that the stakes are too high and loose interest.

About this time a French police car rolls by. The tables disappear and the crowds beginning moving up and down the hill. Guess the stakes just got too high for the scammers too.

Today as we are preparing to leave, I counted eight boxes and men set up to take the tourists money. Earlier in the morning the police came and gave someone a ticket, so I guess they figured the cops had already been out today. Game on.

Culinary Delights

Small crunchy fried fishes, yummy.

Frog legs Provencal with butter, garlic, tomato and parsley, delicious.

And me, enjoying my first cuisses de grenouille...tastes like tiny chicken legs.

France with Dey and Family

We finally arrived in Mercurey after a 3-hour train delay (didn’t check before hand and could not get on a train) and a taxi ride from Chalon. The taxi dropped us off at a school for a choral recital. Dey and Pierre and a small group began singing “Swing Low Sweet Chariot” as well walked in.

A perfect moment.

I realize now after leaving Dey and her family that spending time with family takes more time than sight seeing in some great foreign city and that I short changed myself on both my visit with Michael and now my visit with Dey and Pierre.

I guess the lesson learned is that I have to come back and take time, real time to just be and not do.

Ancient Arles

What a sweet, quaint town! We arrived in Arles via train in the late afternoon and quickly acclimated ourselves to this walkable town. Our stay at Mia Casa with Delphine as host was a highlight of our accommodations. You will definitely find my spectacularly positive fantastic review of her B and B on Tripadvisor.com. I have used this site faithfully and have never been steered wrong. Well, ok once, but I chose to ignore the negative comments. (See blog titled – Probably the Worst Hostel Ever).

Arles is the type of place that feels like a comfortable slipper. Walking the tiny streets and enjoying the old buildings put me right back into the time of Van Gogh. I can see why he came here to paint, the light, the ambiance, the gosh darn quaintness of it is truly inspiring.

On Wednesday morning we walked to the market buying, cheese, sausage, soap, herbs and a few other items that I now have to find room to pack in my ever increasing in size bag. Good thing that I packed lighter this time!

We followed a self-guided tour of “Places that Van Gogh painted.” In some of the locations, you could still see the resemblance of how it was in his time. See the plaque on the right side of the photo and the original cafe on the left. I took pictures to show my students next year in art class. I will have to work it into an assignment of Van Gogh inspiration.

We also bought the Passport Liberte for five sites and the museum for one month. We managed to see four sites in an afternoon and did not return in the morning to the museum. But enjoyed enough to get our money’s worth since Violet was free. Gotta love the under 16 policy for “children.”

My favorite place was the underground part of the old Roman city that was in Arles. Called Cryptoporticus du Forum. It sits underneath a building called “Hotel de Ville.” Other monuments we visited were Théâtre Antique. Still in use, a stage was set up for summer music programs. The Arena, similar to the Coliseum in Rome, but smaller, still hosts bull fights, most unfortunate for the bulls.

Sensational Switzerland

Awaiting us at Michael’s house was a mental, physical and spiritual oasis. I cannot yet comprehend the impact of our short visit with him and only wish I had scheduled more time to replenish. Next time we see each other, it will not be the 24 years it has been between this and our last visit.

Michael and his partner, Remos, opened their home and family to us. We enjoyed a Sweet Sixteen Pool Party for a family friend on Sunday, only after hitting the flea market in search of 1950’s West Germany pottery with the distinctive Fat Lava glaze. Soon to make its debut as a new business venture, “Something Special,” Michael has scoured flea markets abroad in search of these beautiful vintage vessels. I found a few small goodies that will fit in my suitcase, two hand painted with traditional design wooden needle holders and a hand carved gourd with a Swiss mountain scene on top. My purchases were 10 Swiss Franc total. Michael surprised me with a gift of a wire chicken for collecting eggs!

The next day, Michael drove us to the Alps, to a special spot called Golzern. We rode a cable car up to a spot in the mountains and when we walked off and I looked up. It was so beautiful and breathtaking, I cried. The hills truly were alive. Taking a path along to a thermal, not glacier filled lake; we were able to mange the 68 degrees water for a quick dip. Continuing on through the hills, beauty surrounded us, except for the clanging of the cowbells, it had the silence of trees and mountains that have stood since the beginning of time. My heart swelled. Having a sense of timelessness, turning it over to the endless wisdom and the source of my soul, I cried again. Letting go and leaving behind all that no longer resembles the “me” that I am today. I am blessed to have the tender kindness of friends whose friendship is deep and lasting to allow me to be me.

One Day - Three Countries

Leaving Barcelona, Spain on Easy Jet was a snap. We left from Terminal 2C, just past busy Terminal 2B were we arrived. Terminal B housed every single international budget flight carrier in Eastern and Central Europe creating super long check-in lines. Continuing to walk past them all, we reached Terminal 2C, which apparently only had one carrier, British owned, Easy Jet. We breezed through security and found the waiting area for our flight, got a drink for the plane ride, since nothing is gratis in the air and waited. We boarded with no problem and arrived in Lyon, France.

Baggage arrived just inside the airport doors and we proceeded to a shuttle that took us to Avis for our car pick up. Again, there was no one in line. We got our car, set up the GPS in English and we were off. Only veering off the proscribed path a few times, we arrived about 5 hours later in Zufikon, Switzerland at the home of my long time art school friend for our next adventure.