Wednesday, June 18, 2014

Our Last Day in the Riviera

Today we travel east to the small medieval town of Eze.  Here we visit the one of the Frogonard perfume factory.  We learn that it takes a ton of rose petals to make a very small amount of essential oil for perfume making.  This is why it is so expensive.  They also still make some items by hand, carefully packing each item for retail.  After the tour, we are let lose into the factory store where I purchase far too many items as gifts and for myself. 




 We wander up the stairs to the top of the hill where the castle of Eze sits perched atop for safety and security during medieval times.  Wandering the steep narrow passageway we climb to a lovely viewpoint.

Returning back to the bus we press on east to the tiny country of Monaco.  We learn that Monaco is the most densely populated country in the world.  It is only .7 square miles with over 32,000 inhabitants.  Thanks to the casino, it is also a tax-free haven.  We have lunch of moules and frites.  After lunch we wander the hilly terrain taking in the views of exotic yachts, exquisite gardens and fantastic coastal views.



Back in Nice, we swim the Mediterranean Sea and say good by to the French Riviera.

Thanks for a great tour EF.  See you next year in Spain!!

Toward Nice

Packing up for another town, this time toward the French Riviera we travel a few hours to Cassis.  Cassis sits on the southern coast just east of the larger port of Marseilles.  The tiny pleasant coastal town reminds me of northern California.  Grape vines cover most of the land. Tiled roof Mediterranean style homes with colorfully landscaped yards dot the rolling hillsides. 

Here we board a boat to take a ride through a few of the La Calanques.  La Calanques are fiord like inlets along the coast with dramatic shear cliffs and small sandy coves.  We visit three out of the possible eight calanques and return back to the marina to find lunch and shopping.

Our time in Cassis is over, but not before Auriel, our bus driver, takes us for a scenic (read harrowing for some) bus ride up and over the cliffs that surround the town of Cassis.  This too reminds me of northern California, specifically Highway 1, south of San Francisco, only not so long of a distance in our instance.  We stop for a picture taking moment before we find the highway and finish the final leg of our bus journey to Nice.


It is late when we return back to the hotel, but a few of us venture out into a near by square.  The cafes have the television playing the World Cup and France is playing.  When they score, cheers erupt from every corner of the square.

Monday, June 16, 2014

Paris to Provence

Our fourth day is our transfer to the south of France in the region of Provence.

The good news is we are going to take the fast train, the TGV that gets there in three hours.  
The bad news is the train workers are on strike**.  
The good news is that we have a bus. 
The bad news is that it is going to take nine hours. 
The good news is that the bus is coming from Italy and we are not going to leave until 8:00 am instead of 6:00 am.   
The bad news is that we get a flat tire.
The good news the driver can change it himself.  
The bad news the jack doesn’t work. 
The good news is that three other guys show up with a new jack and help him.  

We are on our way……

Finally arriving by 10:30 for our 7:30 dinner, we have made our destination.

After dinner and back at the hotel, we decide to take a night stroll  toward the Antique Amphitheatre which was build in the 2nd century AD. Loud music is tumbling out of it and we see a poster for Abba Fever.  An Abba cover band is playing “Dancing Queen” to an all-age filled arena. The blend of antiquity with techno lighting seals the evening with delight.



** So I am told by Magali that the company that makes the trains is going to be sold to either an American or German company.  With either of these transfers of ownership,  There is always the possibility that  benefits will be cut.  As she told me, the workers on the trains are still getting a coal supplement even while trains are not run on coal anymore.

Pont du Gard-Nimes-Avignon

Today is jam-packed. Off to Pont du Gard which is a 2000 year old aqueduct built by the Romans to bring water from the Gard river to the people of Nimes.  It is a beautiful monument to the architectural intelligence of the Roman people. During the flood of 2002, the waters rose to the top of the first arch.  We bathe our toes in the river and climb to the edge of the top beam where it meets one side of the cliff.


 Back on the bus, we drive onto the town of Nimes, where the ancient aqueduct once delivered  water to its people.  In Nimes, we have lunch and visit the Arenes, a smaller version of the Coliseum found in Rome.  The audio tour describes it gory history of gladiator and animal fighting.  The sun is hot and a bit blinding.  Somehow I manage to miss step on the large stone stairs and roll my ankle.  A bandage ibuprofen and arnica later I am much better.  But I can’t say the same for the man that slipped and was taken out in a wheelchair with a temporary splint on his leg!



Avignon is our last destination.  Here we take a tour of the Pope’s Palace.  This was the home of only six Popes during the 14th century.



Inside the palace, serene cement halls, sacristies and the grand chapelle are in sharp contrast with the ornate marble, mirrors and chandeliers of the rooms found at Versailles.  The energy of the palace has a certain peaceful majesty.  A contemporary art exhibit shares the space that was once occupied by the pope and his bishops.

 After the tour we exit onto a cobblestone street that gives way to a very large shopping district confined behind an impressive, fully intact medieval wall.  This area is considered downtown Avignon.  Today the city extends beyond the walls.



Sitting outside in a café, we hear rave style music and see rainbow flags. By chance, it is a gay pride festival complete with floats, music and a foam making machine.  We find ourselves in the center of the festivities as mostly young French people celebrate their personal choice rights in the streets of Avignon.

Sunday, June 15, 2014

Paris- Day Three


Our day begins with a Metro ride to the Louvre, which at one time was the palace of the king and queen before Louis the XIV, not the world’s largest museum.  To understand the magnitude of the Louvre, if one were to spend only three seconds viewing each artwork, it would take over 3 months, day and night, to see all of the art housed within the museum.  We have 1 ½ hours. 
So our first mission is to seek out the Mona Lisa.  And along the way, we find another woman, Aphrodite aka: Venus de Milo. One floor later, we and about a hundred others, view her and take selfies.  Wandering into another gallery, we see the original painting depicting the coronation of Napoleon’s wife, Josephine.  A day earlier, we had seen the replica of this exact painting in the palace at Versailles. 
More wandering….Egyptian room…..French impressionists…..Flanders masterpieces….Roman statues….medieval frescoes…..Byzantine gold leaf Christian paintings…..and the gift shop.
We cross over “The Locks of Love” bridge again, with some of the group adding to the easy million locks attached to the bridge.  It is at this moment when three girls from our group witness a marriage proposal. The young American couple throw the key into the river to seal their love forever.  Onward to the Latin Quarter where much shopping and eating will be taking place.  I enjoy a fabulous three course lunch of escargots, poulett de coco and crème brulee.
After lunch, we all head over to the Eifel Tower, passing by the little green painted stalls called bouquinistes, that flank the Seine River walkway.  Originally these stands sold banned books, but now they sell used books, magazines and comics, prints, postcards and tasteful souvenirs.
At the Eifel Tower, some of us (me) walk up to the first and second floor to the middle observation platform, while others wait for the elevator to lift them up and over the 660 steps to the middle platform.  For some that is far enough, while others take the elevator to the tippy top some 1000 feet above Paris.  Whatever platform, the view….spectacular!

Getting near dinner time, we take the metro to Rue de Layfayette for a few more moments of shopping until our dinner reservations.  Tonight we try a traditional Alsace region food called flammekueche which is combination of cheese and toppings on a thin crispy bread…much like a pizza.  Even dessert of chocolate and apples and cinnamon is served up hot on this Alsace traditional food.
After dinner, about half of us decide to go back to the hotel and the other half press on for a evening Seine River cruise.  We board the boat at 10:00pm, sun setting and full moon rising for a one-hour boat cruise.  Our guide, speaking in both French and English, points out landmarks on both the Right and Left Bank.  We notice people on several bridges dining in white attire.  Our guide explains that it is the White Dinner.  With no further explanation, I have yet to check the internet for further details.
It is almost midnight when we make our way back to the hotel, another full day ending, happy and exhausted in Paris.

Paris – New Sights and those Revisited – Day One/Two


Our flight left Austin on Monday, at half past 4 o’clock arriving in Atlanta a few minutes late.  My concern for the slight hour between our Paris flight quickly diminishes as a mechanical concern delays the departure time.  Torrential rain at Charles De Gualle airport delaying all flights landing there, further assists our later departure as we sit on the tarmac waiting for the word from Paris control tower that we are clear for take off.

We touch down in Paris on Tuesday, two hours later than scheduled and wait for our EF tour transfer.  Since our group is small we manage to ride in what by European standards, would be called a large van. Through crowded, rain soaked streets to Magenta Hotel, our centrally located Paris hotel, we arrive just in time for dinner and the rain to cease.  Perfect timing.

We are four groups of travelers from Oklahoma, Illinois, Arizona and us, from Austin, Texas.  The other groups are made up of high school French classes and together we are about 40 people on this tour.  

After a typical French meal of salad, beef and potatoes and a cream puff for desert, we head back to the hotel, exhausted, jet lagged and ready for, hopefully, a good night’s rest.

Our first tour packed day begins with a bus tour, directed by Veronica a local Parisian guide. Snaking down busy streets, she quickly points out monuments, fountains and buildings as we breeze by in our air conditioned bus, slowing, but never stopping as the lucky few snap photos from the bus.  Later, we might recognize some of these locations either from one of our walking tour, viewing from the top of the Eifel Tower or our evening Seine River boat ride.

We pick up Magali, our official EFTour Director at Trocodero Square which serves as a viewing platform and gateway to the Eifel Tower.  From this point we take the short drive to Versailles where we have a quick lunch before our tour of the gardens and palace.

On the self-guided tour of the gardens, we learn the difference of a proper French garden vs. an English garden.  The French garden consists of symmetry and geometry where the English garden is left to its more nature state and arrangement.  Versailles being most definitely a proper French garden!
Inside the palace, history comes alive.  We learn that it was Louis the XIV, the Sun King,  who built the castle outside of Paris, leaving the Lourve vacant as an insult to the Parisians who had so badly mistreated  his mother.  The sight in Versailles had originally been a hunting lodge, built by his father, as it was a favorite leisure time of the nobility to hunt out in the woods surrounding Paris.

The palace at Versailles would house only three kings and their court for a little over a hundred years, ending with Louis the XVI and Marie Antoinette. And we all know how that story ended.

Veronica continues guiding us through the palace adding bits of information, describing the function of each room, while navigating us through the crowds in a little over an hour.  Much of the original furniture did not withstand the element of time, however, she points out an original chandelier and rug, among a few others. 


We learn that the hall of mirrors was originally used for dancing, designed long and narrow as the style of dance at the time was in linear form – men on one side and women on the other. The hall itself was so impressive at the time since mirror (glass) had to be imported from Italy when it was built. 

Back on the bus and a short ride into Paris, we leave our local guide and began a walking tour that leads us to Pont de Arts, the infamous “Locks of Love” Bridge.  Magali informs us that two panels had fallen off the bridge two days earlier from the weight of the thousands of locks on those two panels. Crossing over to the  R/L bank we take a short tour of Notre Dame, the church where Napoleon and his wife, Josephine, were crowned.

Today we all learn how to travel with a large group on the Metro by fanning out along the track so that everyone can get on.  Everyone is told the stop to get off at which a quick head count determine if everyone has, in fact made it on the train.  If not, everyone wait for the next train, until we are all present.  It works perfectly, even if not everyone makes the same train.

Dinner consists of a big salad, complete with, off course, potatoes fried into chips, among other typical items of cheese, ham and tomatoes, piled on top.  After dinner we walk through Montmartre eating crepes. A quick trip to the Sacre Coure ends our walking tour, back on the metro to our hotel on Rue de Magenta.

On the descent down the hill, from the Sacre Coure we pass by the flat that Jackson, Violet and I rented three summers ago on our stay in Paris….sweet memory revisited.


Monday, June 9, 2014

Aller en France


I am just about to embark on my third adventure with EF Tours. (http://www.eftours.com)

Last summer eight of us went to Venice, FLorence and Rome Italy.  We had a great time seeing art and experiencing the Renaissance culture. See last summer's blogs for all the details.

In one hour, ten of us will rendevous at Austin-Bergstrom Airport and tomorrow we will touch down at Charles De Gaulle airport in Paris to begin this summer whirlwind tour of Paris and the French Riviera.

As the song says "my bags are packed and I'm ready to go…" Join me!